Neige Sweatshirt by Deer & Doe.

Ad: Pattern supplied previous to launch in exchange for one photo, without obligation to blog. Money was given to cover fabric costs.

The new Deer and Doe collection for A/W 2020 could be seen as slight departure to their usual designs. Loungewear and casual is not something I would associate with the brand, but look a little closer, and that chic nod and attention to detail can be seen.

Despite being someone who needs comfort, I am not what most would describe as a casual dresser. So when I saw the Neige and Acajou, I appreciated the style that has been thoughtfully introduced into what could otherwise be seen as a pair of trackies and a jumper.

2020 is undoubtably the year of comfort. Lockdown and working from home, has left people relishing not having to get ‘dressed’ for work and socialising. I can see that this has been the inspiration for the collection. Giving the wearer comfort, but put together enough for an online meeting.

I made the Neige jumper. I particularly like the architectural design of the sleeves and the option to make it sporty or more formal depending on simple collar and cuff choice.

Its no secret that I love Deer and Doe for their design, but its also the small things that I appreciate. Taping PDFs is not most people idea of fun. Small features like having the pattern printed outside of the usual margins really helps. This means that you don’t have to trim/minimal trimming is necessary to have a continuous line printed across the A4 pieces.

My first version was from a black Ponte which has been in my stash for a while. I did manage to squeeze the smallest size from 1m with some creative cutting. I made version 1, which I really like.

I was pleased with what was essentially my toile; when my 11 year old daughter caught sight of it and swiped it for herself!

So onto my second version! I wanted a fabric to show the shaping of the sleeves so I decided on this lovely Jacquard from Lamazi fabrics.

A word on fabric choice; I am really pleased with the end result of the dress, but I wouldn’t say it was ideal for this project. Be sure that your fabric doesn’t have too much drape or stretch. I had to fiddle with the settings on my overlocker to make sure that I didn’t end up with wavy seams, and when I opened my seam I could see the stitches from the overlocker.

I decided the seams needed some reinforcement so re-sewed with the sewing machine. Using the lightning bolt stitch, reducing the pressure of the presser foot and using a walking foot, the seams seemed much more stable. A good press and blast of steam helped too.

To make the dress, it was as simple as continuing the line from the hem of version 1 in a straight line. To bring it to just above knee level I added 16″ to the side seams of the front and back pieces. I finished everything as recommended in the instructions. I particularly like the added interest the small split in the side seams gives, especially when seated.